martes, 26 de septiembre de 2017

Kakum National Park in Ghana

The entrance, 50 cedis (10€) I think it is a bit high for what it offers: 1h trek, including the 30min through the suspension bridges (Canopy Walk). I was also disappointed since they dont open til 9am when in many websites they say you can only see wildlife in the early morning (7-9am). Some people, like me, arrived at 8am and they expected too the Park would be open by then. About the trek, the guide explained you few things but nothing special. Many Westeners would say 10€ is nothing for what you see, but in my opinion, we tourists should try to apply to local prices instead of comparing them with our own currencies in order to not affect negatively the perception they have about us (ATM with legs), and raise the prices for their own people. To sum up, I would not recommend Kakum unless you are bored and have some money left to spend. Regards the logistics, I went to Kakum by trotro (local buses) from the trotro station with destination Twifo Praso (Kakum is on the way) and paid 5cedis. Advice: when you are asking for the trotro station or trotro dont mention Kakum, just say Twifo Praso and once in the trotro, when the mate ask you to pay say Kakum and give him 5cedis. Otherwise, they would try you to pay 10 cedis, the total price to Twifo Praso. Taxis would ask you too for 50 or 100 cedis to take you there... business as usual if you are familiar traveling here. The trip by trotro took me an hour, and by taxi you may save 20-30min.

Best 5 things to do in Ghana - Ghana Live TV
Canopy Walk at Kakum National Park. Source: www.ghanalive.tv

domingo, 24 de septiembre de 2017

Wli waterfalls in Ghana

I did the long route, known as Loop. It was a beautiful hike although I would not recommend it to anyone who isnt used to hike, or during the rainy season (May til September) because it gets muddy and slippery. The guide didnt speak english so I couldnt know much about the history, nature, and features of the surroundings. This isnt an uncommon thing in Ghana, at least until what I could experience in my two months: guides arent that good even if they speak the language. Another annoying thing is that they make you pay 5cedis (1€) per every picture you want to take during the hike. The path is not cleaned from weeds, and sometimes there is just not a path to follow: you just go across vegetation or eventually have to descend through a rocky wall holding to branches around. They could do a better job on that. The hike I did lasted 3h although normally they say it can take until 5h, but I was by myself so we didnt stop that much. At the end of the hike you must tip the guide, I gave him 20 cedis (5 US$) because I was alone, but if you are a group 5-10 cedis is more than enough since they get paid per hike later at the office.

Travel Inspiration – Travel Secrets
Upper waterfall at Wli (Ghana). Source: https://travelsecretsmag.wordpress.com/category/travel-inspiration/

martes, 19 de septiembre de 2017

Krokobite beach in Ghana

I went by trotro (vans that work as local buses) near Tudu Station (in Accra) for 5cedis (1€) and 40min. You get off at the last bus stop once in Krokobite, 2min walk from the beach. It is less crowdy, almost no people in fact, than Labadi beach and luckily you will be able to see fishermen with their long little boats arriving and unloading the fish they caught. There are also some nice bars to get a beer and listen some music. The problem I found was people pooping right at the beach, not appalling for swimming lol. Dont let the beach boys fool you with their tricks and "friendships". I feel sometimes we tourist are too nice and ended up not enjoying our time just because we want to be open to the obruni-grabbers as Ghanaians know them.

Panoramio - Photo of Krokobite beach
Krokobite beach. Source: www.panoramio.com

viernes, 15 de septiembre de 2017

Racism in Ghana

I know this will be controversial. I am from Spain, where there is also racism, and when I saw a post titled “Racist Spain” I got mad and upset. It is shocking our capacity to merge with concepts, such as our nation, and feel so identify with it that we defend it from bad depictions we hear (read) about it.

But here I am, about to describe the racism I felt while living in Ghana, and in other African countries as well. I know I will be criticized for it, but I guess after reading other opinions and testimonies of racism, homophobia… and other intolerances, I can also speak up about my experience as a minority.

During my two months in Ghana, one month in Kenya, one month in Ethiopia, and thirteen months in Somalia, I felt treated differently. Some people would always tell me that because I am white I cannot complain about racism. Racism for many non-white people is the oppressive system that doesn’t provide equal opportunities to its citizen based on their skin color. Well, I agree with that perception of racism, but I also feel that the minute you judge me and act towards me in a different way because the color of my skin is different from yours, you are being racist.

Obama cloth by Abby Line Berry. Source:  https://abbylineberry.wordpress.com/2011/10/27/five-reasons-africa-got-my-goat-today/
Prejudices and stereotypes play a big role in racism. In Africa, this is not different. Being a white person turns you out into an ATM with legs, in general terms. Although it is true, I assume genuinely, that most of the white people in Ghana have more money that the average Ghanaian, it is really frustrating and annoying that constantly people approach you and call you out in the street to get some money or influence from you. They are following a stereotype, but that doesn’t mean it is right.

In the same way that is annoying, frustrating and racist that many black people feel judged as poor and ignorant in the white countries, I felt bad when in black countries locals don’t treat me as everyone else.

The thing that I most hated was that every time I got out I had to listen people calling me obruni (white man). Every time I wanted to shop, they raised the price five to ten times higher than to a local. Every time I was walking on the street taxis honked at me because they do not think a white man could feel like walking or taking a bus (trotro) like everyone else. Every time I went partying hookers came around becoming their main target. Children followed me, touched my skin, touched my hair, joked at me… I felt like: yes, my skin color is different, no need to remind me all the time.

In Ghana they call you obruni, in Kenya is mzungu, in Ethiopia is faranji, etc. It amazes how shameless people call you out these names to your face knowing that it only takes few days to understand you are referring to me by my race. They don’t use other physical feature, but your white skin color. I guess it is cultural but in the West it is very rude to call out someone by any physical feature unless it is a nickname that both agreed to use. One thing is to use a physical feature to describe someone and another is to be called obruni in the bus, in the market, at the street, by police, by taxis… It is just too much.

The good thing, if there is a good thing about racism, is that the racism here positioned you generally in a higher status than the locals. They think that because you are white you have money, education, and honesty. The police would never harass you or blame you as it happens in the West with black people. They won’t kick you out or refuse you from getting in any place. Students and teachers would respect you, and your opinion in discussions would matter. It can get to your head if you don’t watch carefully.


To sum up, being a white person in Ghana, and so far in the African countries I have been, would always be a problem to act naturally. Even if you are black from the West, they would not treat you like them. Most of the people, the uneducated, will always treat you different because you are a Western, but specially if you are white and female. They will think you are naive and generous, and that you don’t lack resources or support. They will try to get benefits from you such as money, influence, or popularity (how many random people asked for a picture in the street, I can’t remember). It is sad, but it is a reality. Some white folks I met who have lived there for years became kind of arrogant and distant with the locals because of these daily attitude towards them. To worsen thing, some tourists promote these kind of racism when they approve being called obruni, accept to be shot pictures randomly in the street, or pay more money than the average Ghanaian for the same products/services.  

*Racial discrimination- treatment or consideration of or making a distinction in favor of or against a person based on the racial group to which the person is perceived to belong rather than individual attribute.