viernes, 13 de octubre de 2017

Busua beach (near Takoradi) in Ghana

I went to Busua Beach from Cape Coast in August 2017 for a day trip. It took so long to go that I wouldnt recommend it for a day trip, but it is definitely the best beach I visited in Ghana: it was similar to Krokobite but much cleaner and almost no people. I would spend two nights. It was super peaceful and relaxing. But because it was rainny season (May-September) three hours later I arrived it started to rain a bit. There are some lodges and hotels but it seems pretty empty in general terms. There are a few surfers schools. The workers of hotels and restaurant (maybe 5-6 people) dont bother you so much as they do in Labadi or Krokobite. About logistics and how to go there from Cape Coast: I first took a trotro at 7am (local vans that work as buses) from the trotro station with destination to Takoradi for 10 cedis (2€). Then in Takoradi, at the gas station Ezi Goal Station (in front of the roundabout, by Agona-Takoradi rd) I took another trotro to Agona for 5cedis (1€). Finally at Agona town, at the little trotro/taxi station by the roundabout (make sure you tell the driver of the Agona trotro you are going to Busua or he will take you further in town instead of dropping you at this taxi station to go to Busua) you have to take a shared taxi (3 cedis per person) or normal taxi (10 cedis) to Busua. The taxi will drop you at Busua, 1min walk from the beach and the resorts. The whole trip took me 4h.

Sunny and sandy beaches of West Africa. - SkyscraperCity
Busua beach in Ghana. Source: www.skyscrapercity.com

miércoles, 4 de octubre de 2017

Ghana's slave castle: Elmina's castle

When you visit Cape Coast people always wonder which castle to visit: Elmina's or Cape Coast's. The first one is the oldest and the second one is the biggest. I ended up visiting Elmina's and I wasnt disappointed. Although I believed I wouldnt be disappointed if I had visited Cape Coast's either. I later shared my experience with other travelers who did Cape Coast's and the experience was similar. The history and the guides of those places are amazing. It makes you wonder and reflect about human history and the sufferings and drama along the way. You can still feel the horrors and tragedies that those castles witnessed. The guide I had was a great speaker and didnt leave questions unanswered. About logistics, you can easily go to Elmina's castle by a shared taxi at Bakaano roundabout (15min walk from Cape Coast's castle) for 3 cedis (1$ was at that time 4,5cedis) or just pay 10cedis to go all the way without sharing the car (20min). The entrance was 40cedis (30cedis if you show student card) and it takes around an hour the total tour. Dont waste time with the boys hovering outside, they will use all kinds of tricks to get some money: sign-up and donate money for a football team, for school fees, for church... (I wouldnt worry if you are familiar traveling in these countries though).  

ElminaCastle.info - Elmina Castle - Ghana
Source: elminacastle.info

martes, 26 de septiembre de 2017

Kakum National Park in Ghana

The entrance, 50 cedis (10€) I think it is a bit high for what it offers: 1h trek, including the 30min through the suspension bridges (Canopy Walk). I was also disappointed since they dont open til 9am when in many websites they say you can only see wildlife in the early morning (7-9am). Some people, like me, arrived at 8am and they expected too the Park would be open by then. About the trek, the guide explained you few things but nothing special. Many Westeners would say 10€ is nothing for what you see, but in my opinion, we tourists should try to apply to local prices instead of comparing them with our own currencies in order to not affect negatively the perception they have about us (ATM with legs), and raise the prices for their own people. To sum up, I would not recommend Kakum unless you are bored and have some money left to spend. Regards the logistics, I went to Kakum by trotro (local buses) from the trotro station with destination Twifo Praso (Kakum is on the way) and paid 5cedis. Advice: when you are asking for the trotro station or trotro dont mention Kakum, just say Twifo Praso and once in the trotro, when the mate ask you to pay say Kakum and give him 5cedis. Otherwise, they would try you to pay 10 cedis, the total price to Twifo Praso. Taxis would ask you too for 50 or 100 cedis to take you there... business as usual if you are familiar traveling here. The trip by trotro took me an hour, and by taxi you may save 20-30min.

Best 5 things to do in Ghana - Ghana Live TV
Canopy Walk at Kakum National Park. Source: www.ghanalive.tv

domingo, 24 de septiembre de 2017

Wli waterfalls in Ghana

I did the long route, known as Loop. It was a beautiful hike although I would not recommend it to anyone who isnt used to hike, or during the rainy season (May til September) because it gets muddy and slippery. The guide didnt speak english so I couldnt know much about the history, nature, and features of the surroundings. This isnt an uncommon thing in Ghana, at least until what I could experience in my two months: guides arent that good even if they speak the language. Another annoying thing is that they make you pay 5cedis (1€) per every picture you want to take during the hike. The path is not cleaned from weeds, and sometimes there is just not a path to follow: you just go across vegetation or eventually have to descend through a rocky wall holding to branches around. They could do a better job on that. The hike I did lasted 3h although normally they say it can take until 5h, but I was by myself so we didnt stop that much. At the end of the hike you must tip the guide, I gave him 20 cedis (5 US$) because I was alone, but if you are a group 5-10 cedis is more than enough since they get paid per hike later at the office.

Travel Inspiration – Travel Secrets
Upper waterfall at Wli (Ghana). Source: https://travelsecretsmag.wordpress.com/category/travel-inspiration/

martes, 19 de septiembre de 2017

Krokobite beach in Ghana

I went by trotro (vans that work as local buses) near Tudu Station (in Accra) for 5cedis (1€) and 40min. You get off at the last bus stop once in Krokobite, 2min walk from the beach. It is less crowdy, almost no people in fact, than Labadi beach and luckily you will be able to see fishermen with their long little boats arriving and unloading the fish they caught. There are also some nice bars to get a beer and listen some music. The problem I found was people pooping right at the beach, not appalling for swimming lol. Dont let the beach boys fool you with their tricks and "friendships". I feel sometimes we tourist are too nice and ended up not enjoying our time just because we want to be open to the obruni-grabbers as Ghanaians know them.

Panoramio - Photo of Krokobite beach
Krokobite beach. Source: www.panoramio.com

viernes, 15 de septiembre de 2017

Racism in Ghana

I know this will be controversial. I am from Spain, where there is also racism, and when I saw a post titled “Racist Spain” I got mad and upset. It is shocking our capacity to merge with concepts, such as our nation, and feel so identify with it that we defend it from bad depictions we hear (read) about it.

But here I am, about to describe the racism I felt while living in Ghana, and in other African countries as well. I know I will be criticized for it, but I guess after reading other opinions and testimonies of racism, homophobia… and other intolerances, I can also speak up about my experience as a minority.

During my two months in Ghana, one month in Kenya, one month in Ethiopia, and thirteen months in Somalia, I felt treated differently. Some people would always tell me that because I am white I cannot complain about racism. Racism for many non-white people is the oppressive system that doesn’t provide equal opportunities to its citizen based on their skin color. Well, I agree with that perception of racism, but I also feel that the minute you judge me and act towards me in a different way because the color of my skin is different from yours, you are being racist.

Obama cloth by Abby Line Berry. Source:  https://abbylineberry.wordpress.com/2011/10/27/five-reasons-africa-got-my-goat-today/
Prejudices and stereotypes play a big role in racism. In Africa, this is not different. Being a white person turns you out into an ATM with legs, in general terms. Although it is true, I assume genuinely, that most of the white people in Ghana have more money that the average Ghanaian, it is really frustrating and annoying that constantly people approach you and call you out in the street to get some money or influence from you. They are following a stereotype, but that doesn’t mean it is right.

In the same way that is annoying, frustrating and racist that many black people feel judged as poor and ignorant in the white countries, I felt bad when in black countries locals don’t treat me as everyone else.

The thing that I most hated was that every time I got out I had to listen people calling me obruni (white man). Every time I wanted to shop, they raised the price five to ten times higher than to a local. Every time I was walking on the street taxis honked at me because they do not think a white man could feel like walking or taking a bus (trotro) like everyone else. Every time I went partying hookers came around becoming their main target. Children followed me, touched my skin, touched my hair, joked at me… I felt like: yes, my skin color is different, no need to remind me all the time.

In Ghana they call you obruni, in Kenya is mzungu, in Ethiopia is faranji, etc. It amazes how shameless people call you out these names to your face knowing that it only takes few days to understand you are referring to me by my race. They don’t use other physical feature, but your white skin color. I guess it is cultural but in the West it is very rude to call out someone by any physical feature unless it is a nickname that both agreed to use. One thing is to use a physical feature to describe someone and another is to be called obruni in the bus, in the market, at the street, by police, by taxis… It is just too much.

The good thing, if there is a good thing about racism, is that the racism here positioned you generally in a higher status than the locals. They think that because you are white you have money, education, and honesty. The police would never harass you or blame you as it happens in the West with black people. They won’t kick you out or refuse you from getting in any place. Students and teachers would respect you, and your opinion in discussions would matter. It can get to your head if you don’t watch carefully.


To sum up, being a white person in Ghana, and so far in the African countries I have been, would always be a problem to act naturally. Even if you are black from the West, they would not treat you like them. Most of the people, the uneducated, will always treat you different because you are a Western, but specially if you are white and female. They will think you are naive and generous, and that you don’t lack resources or support. They will try to get benefits from you such as money, influence, or popularity (how many random people asked for a picture in the street, I can’t remember). It is sad, but it is a reality. Some white folks I met who have lived there for years became kind of arrogant and distant with the locals because of these daily attitude towards them. To worsen thing, some tourists promote these kind of racism when they approve being called obruni, accept to be shot pictures randomly in the street, or pay more money than the average Ghanaian for the same products/services.  

*Racial discrimination- treatment or consideration of or making a distinction in favor of or against a person based on the racial group to which the person is perceived to belong rather than individual attribute.

domingo, 27 de agosto de 2017

Crush in Accra

I think the first time I saw her was when I stepped into the pub. My eyes saw her but my mind said “she cannot be here. She would have texted you”. I walked straight to my friends table trying not to turn my face to where she was dancing. I sat right away and started talking to my friends, giving my back to where she was. A while later, one of my friends came back from the toilet saying she met someone on her way back who told her she knew me. Damn, so there she was. I felt disappointed. I thought after the nice night we spent at her place, she would have liked to meet up again. I had texted her about my plans, and expected a similar thing from her. My bad.

I decided to pretend I was surprised of seeing her there, said hello to her best friend warmly and just a nod to her and the other friend. I am not sure she noticed my mood. I tried not to look at her much during the little talk I have with them, and came back to my table quick. Later, some people started to leave the bar, many heading to the nightclubs nearby.

I went to the toilet as an excuse to see her again and talk since my table was in the other side of hers. They told me they were going to a club, one of the best in the city and most selective. Do you know that feeling when you hate someone but at the same time you cant let her go? Well, that was my case: I waited for them to leave and then I convinced my friends to go to the same club. I know, I must like feeling pain and jealousy when I am going to the same place that the girl I like who plans having fun without me.

afro hair, black, boho, curly hair, cute, dark skinned, grunge ...
Fuente: favim.com

When we arrive the entrance fee was so expensive, for men of course, girls are the product at these places so they do not pay, that I ended up with no money for the rest of the night. We went in and there she was dancing at the center of the dance floor. So beautiful and charming. Guys around looking at her eager to approach her.

We join them, but I kept dancing without looking at her or being near her. She approached me, hugging my neck while dancing. I was trapped by her smile, I could not even felt her arms on me. She asked me if everything was alright. Red alarm! she was noticing my mood. But, wasn’t that what I actually wanted? Attention from her. I was confused. I was mad at her. But at the same time I wanted her so much. I was wordless… I said I was fine. I tried to keep a little and superficial talk while we were dancing. How was work, what her plans were for next week… Finally she moved apart saying we should be in touch and keep talking what I replied “how can you say that, you don’t talk to me anymore”. That was my attack. She got the message and went away. It killed my heart.

Sitting on the couch I could see her looking nowhere… lost on her own things. Did not look like she was having fun. I didn’t think she could be worrying for what I said, but to make sure it wasn’t that I came to her like a regretful puppy and asked her for a dance. She said she didn’t want to dance. Second shot to my ego. I asked why and she said something related to the music, the volume… we both knew it was an excuse. Something else was going on.

Ten minutes later she stood up and started to dance closely with a guy on my back. Ok, so now the volume, the music… was it different? Obviously not. Again I acted as a masochistic fan watching the girl I had a crush with dancing with another guy. Everyone with us could feel my tension and upset. I can imagine my face in that situation. I can never hide my feelings.

They kept dancing in a sexy way: touching, grabbing, grinding… Me, just looking stupid observing the drama going on. I tried to change my spot and give my back to them. Changing position did not help. Before I could see them with my eyes, now I could feel them on my back having fun. I was dying :(

Twenty minutes later she came to talk to her best friend, and then left with the guy she was dancing with. Was she taking him home? At that time I should have given up, but still wanted to fix things. I wanted to tell her I liked her and forgave her for not being considerate. You would probably think I was being egocentric. I agree. I sometimes surprised myself how selfish I can be.

So they left, leaving me there “dancing” back and forth without any rhythm or attention to the music being played. A minute later I looked back and saw her coming in alone. I prayed for her not to approach me. I was too mad to talk to her. You betcha! She put her hand on my shoulder to say she was leaving. She came to say bye after all. I didn’t say anything. Then, she moved forward for a hug and a kiss, but I was fast enough to step back and to offer her a handshake instead. She reacted surprised and said “What’s the matter? We’re just friends”. She thought I was just jealous. But what hurt me the most was her lack of interest in me. I guess I have to man up.